Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils came back to life with the remarkable 2002 vintage. The Moreau family sold their long-held negociant business and vineyard holdings in 1985. In 1997, Christian exercised a clause in the contract allowing him to take the vineyards back with five years notice and so, in 2002, Fabian Moreau (the fils in “pere et fils”) began his young and impressive career as head winemaker at the domaine.
The domaine owns and farms a single 3.2 hectare plot of old-vine Chardonnay in the Grand Cru Les Clos. The soils in Les Clos are a combination of white clay and a small amount of marlstone (calcium carbonate – think White Cliffs of Dover). Both powerful and refined, Les Clos enjoys near-universal acclaim as the best of the Chablis Grand Crus.
Both Moreaus and Allen Meadows (aka Burghound) consider 2009 a vintage “that should drink well young,” adding that the level of ripeness ensured there was no need for chaptalization. While the Les Clos is certainly approachable young, it will reward moderate cellaring; Meadows himself says that the wine should approach optimum drinking around 2015.
Chablis Grand cru “Les Clos” 2009
Burghound (91-94): “Moderate wood influence that should integrate quickly still allows the white flower, spiced pear and citrus-infused aromas to shine. The rich, full and serious flavors possess excellent concentration as well as ample amounts of the hallmark minerality on the detailed, energetic and explosive finish.”
Chablis Village 2009
Burghound (89): “A green fruit and tidal pool nose also evidences a hint of grassiness that can also be found on the fresh, intense and punch middle weight flavors that display a hint of minerality on the saline and tension suffused finish. This is excellent and while a bit riper than the ’08 version, is still very much Chablis in character.”