William’s Pick for August: JJ Vincent Bourgogne Blanc and Cleto Chiarli & Figli Vecchia Modena Lambrusco

JJ Vincent Bourgogne Blanc 2009
JJ Vincent
Bourgogne Blanc 2009

Some of you had a chance to try this wine during one of our tastings a few weeks ago – now it’s time for the rest of you to give it a try. Owner of the benchmark Pouilly-Fuisse estate, Chateau Fuisse, Antoine Vincent (“JJ” is a tribute to Jean Jacques, Antoine’s father who ran the estate for 40 years) produces this excellent value Bourgogne from vineyards owned by other family members throughout the Maconnais region. It is 100% Chardonnay, and seriously over-delivers, showing flavors of apple and lemon with just enough oak (it’s fermented mainly in stainless steel) to round out the edges on the palate.

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Cleto Chiarli & Figli Vecchia Modena 2010
Cleto Chiarli & Figli
Vecchia Modena Lambrusco 2010

Lambrusco comes in a variety of styles, some are dry, like this one, some are not, all are sparkling – this bottling from Cleto Chiarli – made from the Sorbara clone, considered to produce the highest-quality, most aromatic Lambrusco – is one of my favorites. The growing region for Sorbara is just north of Modena (Vecchia Modena) – source of Balsamic vinegar. It’s not uncommon to hear someone say that a wine echoes other flavors from its surroundings – truffles and Barolo, anyone? – and it can often stretch the truth a bit, but this really does seem to show just a hint of a balsamic note, along with fresh, tart berries and a dash of flowers in the nose. Serve it chilled in a regular wine glass, and there’s not much that could be more refreshing as a late-summer red. Besides, Lambrusco is making a come back as Eric Asimov recently noted in the Times.

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