William's Picks for April

Prevostini Sassella Sommarovina 2008
Prevostini Sassella
Sommarovina 2008

This is the latest in a string of wines from Lombardy that have left me seriously impressed. This time it’s grown in the Valtellina subzone of Sassella, which is regarded as home to the most powerful wines from this alpine region. This beguiling Nebbiolo certainly has power, but also the balance and elegance allowed by the ripening at such high elevations, along with a brooding aromatic profile – dark cherries and “mushroomy” elements showing up both in the nose and on the palate.

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Bodegas Valdesil Godello “sobre lias” 2009
Bodegas Valdesil
Godello “sobre lias” 2009

Two months ago, I chose a “sur lie” Muscadet for one of my picks of the month, now it’s time for a “sobre lias” Godello. Godello is a grape variety grown in Galicia, northwestern Spain which, through the 1970s and 80s was in drastic decline as the Spanish wine industry set their sights on quantity over quality, and the grape was nearly abandoned entirely. Luckily, things have changed since then. Aging on its lees (the spent yeast cells that remain after fermentation) adds depth and richness to the white, pithy fruits on the palate. Very intense and distinctive aromatically, this is one of my favorite recently-arrivals in the store.

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