Milton’s Picks for April

Oddero Villero Barolo 2006
Oddero Villero
Barolo 2006

I consider myself an open-minded individual, open to new ideas and new ways of doing things, but when it comes to Nebbiolo, I’ll stick with tradition and, at heart, Poderi Oddero is nothing if not traditionalist. I tried Oddero’s 2006 Villero a couple of weeks back and it reminded me why I love Barolo. The wine is nuanced with plenty of ripe and supple tannins. It has beautiful aromas of tar and bitter chocolate, plum and berries that follow through to a full body with layers of flavor and texture. This is a powerful and young wine that needs to be paired with a dish that won’t be overwhelmed. I recommend short ribs, veal shank, New York strip, or any other hearty meat dish.

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“Coenobium”
Lazio Bianco 2010

I want to start an Orange revolution! An Orange wine revolution. No, it’s not made with oranges, it’s a white wine treated like a red. Usually white wines are pressed immediately off the grape skins, with an “orange wine” the juice sits in contact with the skins for an extended period of time, causing the wine here to develop something of a light, amber color. Not only enjoyable, but unusually complex for a wine at this price, the Coenobium has an oxidative quality and layers of minerals, a faint nuttiness, and notes of tree fruits. Made in Monastary in Lazio (Rome’s province) by the iconoclastic Giampiero Bea, it is not only a great wine, but serves as a great introduction to his estate wines from Umbria as well.

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